lijiang travel guide

What to see and do in the Lijiang vicinity
You will find interesting places and activities in beyond Lijiang Ancient Town. The top five are:

Tiger Leaping Gorge
The upper reaches of the Yangtze River forcibly and deafeningly squeeze through a narrow rocky gorge flanked on both sides by high, precipitous mountains. Visitors from Lijiang usually view this attraction on a platform (see photo) along the east bank while those from Zhongdian do it on the opposite bank. They witness an incredibly loud, churning, foaming river relentlessly pounding giant boulders in its path. Tiger Leaping Gorge is an unforgettable display of powerfully intense raw nature.

Spring is by far the best time to visit Tiger Leaping Gorge because the river turbulence is at its peak (melting snow flows down from the Himalayan mountains). Fall is the second best period because of its generally pleasant weather. Rains are heaviest during late summer.

There are two basic routes through the Tiger Leaping Gorge. One is the road that hugs the river. The second is by footpath which runs high above the river. The latter offers better adventure and vistas, but is recommended only to fit, experienced mountain trekkers as it is hazardously narrow and precipitous.

Jade Dragon Cable Car
The majestic Yulong (Jade Dragon) Snow Mountain protectively looks over Lijiang. The peak is 5596 meters (18,340 feet) above sea level. A cableway takes you about 5,000 meters (14,000 feet) up the steep mountain side for spectacular views and an unforgettable high-altitude experience that usually only mountain climbers can enjoy.

Black Dragon Pool
This park offers an excellent photo opportunity (weather permitting). Your lens captures in a single frame the Black Dragon Pool and a five-eaved pavilion backdropped by the skyscraping Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. The park's local name is Yuquan.

First Bend (Shigu Town)
This spot has immense geographical significance. Here the upper reaches of the south-flowing Yangtze River encounters a geological barrier, which forces it to make an abrupt U-turn. This change in direction allows the Yangtze to cut across vast China and empty into the East China Sea just north of Shanghai. Were it not for the first-bend obstruction, the Yangtze River (locally named the Chang Jingsha) would keep heading south. In that case, it would likely eventually merge with the Mekong River, which passes through Vietnam on its way to the South China Sea.

Baisha Murals
Dozens of precious murals dating back over six centuries reside in Baisha, about 8 kilometers (5 miles) north of Jijiang. Nearby is the former home of the late, renowned explorer and botanist Joseph Rock who studied the region's natural and cultural phenomena.

When to visit and not visit Lijiang
Best months
April and October are the two most ideal months in Lijiang. The temperatures are pleasant and it doesn't rain as often.

Least desirable months
It rains a lot in July and August. That's important to know because heavy rains can trigger rock and mud slides, which can block roads. This can cause long travel delays or even cancelled plans (such as your trip to Tiger Leaping Gorge). January and February are not superlative months either because of wintry temperatures.

Busy holiday periods
Unless you have firm hotel reservations, skip these ultra-popular Chinese holiday periods (or you may end up without a room):

• Spring Festival
  This is the Lunar New Year celebration. Its start date varies from year to year, anywhere from mid-January to mid-February.
• May Day
  Occurs during the first two weeks in May.
  
• National Day
  Takes place in the first two weeks in October.

Be aware of altitude sickness
Why it sometimes occurs
The higher the elevation, the thinner its air. Until your respiratory and circulatory systems adjust to a high elevation, your body suffers to some degree from oxygen deprivation. Altitude sickness can result.

Symptoms
They include dizziness, tiredness and headaches - and difficulty in catching your breath when, for example, walking up steps.

Best defense if you are susceptible to altitude sickness
First, be mindful of the altitudes of the key cities you will be visiting.

Do your upward journeys in stages so your lungs can more readily adapt to thinner air. This means, for example, don't go suddenly from a low-altitude city (such as Beijing or Xian) to Lijiang on the same day.

Instead, spend at least one full day in Kunming to acclimate your body to its relatively thin air (spend the time visiting the nearby Stone Forest, a Hillman Wonders Bronze Medal winner). This will help prepare your body for the even thinner air in Lijiang.

Then, stay in Lijiang for at least a day or two before heading to Zhongdian or Deqin, where the air is even more rarified.

Jade Dragon Cable Car tips
Cable car attire
Wear warm clothes. It's freezing where you'll be going (a lookout near the summit of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain).

Winter parkas can be rented before you board the cable car gondolas. The same is true for oxygen bottles, for those who may need one.

Cable car timing
Save time and disappointment.

• Lines
  Avoid long, time-consuming lines waiting to board the gondolas by go early or late in the day.
  
• Clouds
  Before leaving Lijiang for the ride, find out if the high-elevation viewing platforms are expected to be shrouded in clouds when you'll be there. If so, you won't see much, including the stunning panoramic views of the mountains and valleys.

More Lijiang tips and insights
New town
The large new section of town mainly consists of nondescript contemporary buildings. It is of limited sightseeing interest to visitors.

Getting lost in old town
It's easy to get lost in Lijiang Ancient Town because of its labyrinth of meandering passageways. But that's part of the enjoyment because you will discover picturesque alleys that you would not have seen otherwise.

Photo taking
For classic shots of the lanes of Lijiang Ancient Town, arrive before 8 a.m. Later, hoards of tourists jam the narrow passages, obstructing your camera's view. To capture Lijiang's picturesque sea of rooftops, go to the top of Chieftain Mu's Palace.

Water system
Lijiang still uses a sophisticated water supply system that was built centuries ago.

Singing competition
Walk through the Ancient Town's bar area between 7:30 to 11 p.m for a fun, lively experience. Bar patrons sing loudly, then challenge those in the bar immediately across the narrow canal to try to outsing them in energy and volume. This spirited challenge can ping pong back and forth seemingly forever.

Shop prices
Souvenir prices tend to rise the closer you get to Sifang Square. And remember, always negotiate. You should be able to lower the initial price by 30%, sometimes more.

Restaurants
The highest concentration of interesting restaurants can be found on the streets near Sifang Square.

Hotels
Most hotels are in the new section of Lijiang. However, there are some small hotels and guest houses within the old town.

Ethnic minorities
Lijiang and environs are inhabited by several ethnic nationalities with interesting cultures. They include the Naxi, which have the largest population. The best way to see their genuine lifestyles is visiting their outlying villages, farms and rangelands.

Naxi - a woman's world
Women dominate the Naxi culture. Most of the decisions and property ownership are their rights, by long tradition.

Ancient Town of Lijiang
This section of Lijiang is one of the most photogenic and best reconstructed old towns in China. Dayan Town, as it is also known, was rebuilt after a devastating earthquake destroyed it in 1996.

Tibetan dances
Lijiang old town is a treat in the evening when natives and visitors join together to form concentric circles in performing ancient Tibetan dances in the central square, Sifang.

Naxi Traditional Orchestra
Also don't miss its nightly performance played mainly by elderly musicians on rare instruments from the past. Do the same for folk and religious Dongba dances. Music runs in the blood of the Naxi people.

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain
This majestic peak provides a splendid backdrop for Lijiang.

Reconstruction goal
The reconstruction efforts were designed with tourists in mind. Today, Lijiang old town teems with handicraft shops, restaurants and other enterprises geared for visitors.

Streams and canals gently pass through Lijiang old town, as they have for over six centuries. These narrow waterways are shaded by graceful willow trees and crossed by small bridges.

Commendable job
The overall architectural effect of tightly packed wooden structures lining charming pedestrian-only cobblestone lanes and alleys is impressive and should serve as a role model for other cities contemplating recreating their own old towns.

Misguided romantic notion
Some romantics would prefer to have the town reconstructed exactly as it was in 1995. Apparently they never saw it then. It had become somewhat grungy and run down - and hardly like it was in its heyday.

Shuhe Old Town
On the north edge of Lijiang lies Shuhe Old Town. It's worth a visit. Compared with Lijiang Ancient Town, Shuhe Town is:

• Smaller
• Less polished
• More personalized
• More rural, less urban
• Less touristy